Replace the rear camera of an iPhone 13
This tutorial explains how to open the iPhone 13, disconnect the battery, remove the screen and then replace the rear camera module. It calls for patience, method and great care with the ribbon cables and the tiny screws.
The part for this repairRear ultra-wide camera for iPhone 13 (LED) – Compatiblefrom €8.90View the part →Tools needed
- Pentalobe precision screwdriver
on sale · €8.90 - Phillips precision screwdriver
on sale · €9.90 - Suction cup
on sale · €7.90 - Opening picks or thin plastic spudgers
on sale · €7.90 - Anti-static fine-tip tweezers
on sale · €7.90 - Gentle, controlled heat source (phone heat plate or heat pouch)
on sale · €12.90 - Anti-static wrist strap and anti-static work mat
on sale · €7.90 - Magnetic tray or plate to store and identify the screws
- Replacement rear camera module compatible with the iPhone 13
- Replacement adhesive seal for the screen
- Soft lint-free cloth
Safety
- Lithium-ion battery: do not puncture it, bend it or use a metal tool to lever it. A swollen, hot or damaged battery must not be reused.
- Heat: heat in short, moderate steps; too much heat damages the screen, the battery and the seals.
- Static electricity: work on a non-metallic surface and discharge yourself before touching the ribbon cables.
- Switch the device off completely and unplug the charger before opening it. Always disconnect the battery before any other connector.
- Never force the screen ribbon cables: they tear easily. Do not touch the camera lenses with your fingers.
- The original water resistance is no longer guaranteed after opening, even with a new seal.
Steps
Diagram · Device switched off, clean workspace 1Prepare the workspace
Back up your data, switch off the iPhone and unplug all cables. Sit at a well-lit anti-static mat, put on the anti-static wrist strap and prepare a tray to store the screws in order.
Diagram · Unscrew and keep the screws safe 2Remove the bottom screws
Unscrew the two small pentalobe screws located on either side of the charging port. Keep them together in the tray.
Diagram · Suction cup, then pick 3Lift the screen
Gently heat the edge of the screen, place the suction cup at the bottom and lift slightly to create a small gap. Slide an opening pick along the side to cut the adhesive, without pushing it in too deeply, then work carefully all the way around.
Diagram · Open like a book 4Open the screen without pulling on the ribbon cables
Open the screen like the cover of a book, without separating it completely, and prop it against a stable support. The ribbon cables remain connected to the logic board, so do not pull on them.
Diagram · Disconnect the battery first 5Disconnect the battery, then the screen
Remove the metal cover over the battery connector and gently lift that connector with a plastic tool. Then remove the brackets holding the screen connectors, disconnect them and set the screen aside. Note the position of each screw and each bracket carefully.
Diagram · Old part: rear camera 6Remove the old rear camera
Remove any brackets or screws holding the rear camera module. Disconnect its connector with a plastic tool, then gently lift the module, without touching the lenses or bending the ribbon cable.
Diagram · New part: rear camera 7Fit the new camera
Compare the new module with the old one to check that they are identical. Place it in its housing, reconnect its connector by pressing lightly, then put the brackets and screws back in their original positions, without overtightening.
Diagram · Test before closing up 8Test before closing
Temporarily reconnect the battery and the screen, then switch on the iPhone. Check in the Photos app that each lens works, that the image is sharp and that the flash fires. Then switch the device off and disconnect the battery again before continuing.
Diagram · Test before closing up 9Reassemble and close
Reconnect the battery then the screen, and refit the connector covers in the reverse order of disassembly. Clean the edge of the frame, fit the new seal, align the screen and press gently all around. Finally, refit the two bottom screws and carry out a final full test.